The General Module

Posted by murmini Sun, 31 Dec 2006 05:57:34 GMT

A few posts ago, I looked at the bus systems within the MINI electronics and how it lays the groundwork for the specific modules that send and receive communications along the data paths. Now its time to review the function of the General Module.

The General Module or as it is often referred to as the Body Control Module or BC-1. It is the module that manages a number of specific vehicle systems and is located behind the passenger kick panel just in front of the door.

It has two primary K-bus connections, one to the Instrument cluster and one to a network bus. This body control module is a consolidation of a number of smaller system modules that control and monitor the following systems: drive-away protection, locking systems, rain-sensing wipers, sun roof, park distance control, mirror control, audio systems, navigations system, keyless entry, power windows, xenon headlamp control using the leveling sensors, run-flat warning system, all interior lighting, and the multi-function steering wheel. The control module also manages the anti-theft alarm systems if installed and the keyless entry system and its RF receiver.

Although the K-bus is a fairly slow, it is event driven. Messages sent out by the Body Control module have the highest priority on this bus and will override other K-bus traffic . As noted in previous discussion, messages are distributed to all devices but only the specific module being addressed responds to the unique message and subsequently react. This is similar to a computer network where messages are sent to all devices, but only a specific IP address, like a printer, actually responds to the command. As seen in an earlier article here, the General Module is connected to both the K-Bus and Instrument Control Cluster, which in turn is a part of the D and DS-2 Bus infrastructure.

The General Module manages the lock/unlock functions, tailgate release, fuel filler cap and convenience opening of windows and sun-roof, when you hold the door unlock button down for more than five seconds. The drive-away protection or electronic immobilizer - referred to as EWS or Electronic Watchdog System - makes it impossible for the engine to be started by any method other than using the specific keys provided with the vehicle. This operates by matching a primary code that is programmed into a chip set, located in the vehicle's key and into the General Module. A secondary code is changed every time the vehicle is started and stored in the key each time. If they do not match, the engine management control module and the starter are disabled. The key communicates back and forth with the system by way of a transponder in the key and a ring antenna that surrounds the steering lock cylinder. If you bring the body of your key up close to the ignition switch, with the driver's door open, you can hear the familiar chime, even though the key is not in the ignition.

This drive-away protection system can support up to 10 keys for one vehicle. Only a MINI dealer can provide replacement keys and is capable of canceling the electronic authorization codes, in the event of a stolen vehicle being recovered and re-keyed using the BMW scan and diagnostic tools DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC

The General Module, is a sophisticated device capable of controlling all of the body electronics and has an integrated diagnostic system capable of reporting a number of faults to the OBD connector located in the driver's foot well. This is the connector that your MINI dealer ties into to conduct fault location and analysis and fix an ailing MINI.

77 comments

Comments

  1. Mel said about 5 hours later:

    Wow, I didn’t know that the system was that complex. Great post Murray. Happy New Year. cheers.

  2. Ian C. said 1 day later:

    Interesting Murray … I hate to sound like I’m disagreeing, but I though the key immobilization was in the engine computer itself (maybe as well?)

  3. murmini said 1 day later:

    Ian the management of the EWS or Electronic Watchdog System, is in the General Body Module, but when activated it kills the starter motor and also prevents the engine computer from operating. So the ECU is preventing the car from running but the instructions that disable it come from the General Body Module.

  4. Pedro said 3 days later:

    As always Murray – super job :)

  5. Paul said 3 days later:

    Excellent documentation – but I’m unclear on your statement “when you hold the door unlock button down for more than five seconds”. What exactly does this do?

  6. Big Al said 3 days later:

    When you hold the door unlock button down the windows will roll down, at least on my 2005 MCS. That feature is either not available or not programmed into my 2002 MC.

  7. murmini said 3 days later:

    The ‘unlock’ button on the key, (if programmed) when held down for 5 seconds will roll down both windows and open the sunroof if applicable. This is part of the delivery programming the dealer can do and is called Convenience Opening. A note on this: While the lock button will not close them, if you put the key in the lock and hold it in the locked position it closes both of the windows and the sunroof.

  8. mel said 4 days later:

    My 2005 MC ragtop’s clock speeds up by about 4-5 mins in a week or so after I adjust the time accordingly. So I have to constantly reset the clock, annoying.

    Is this tied in with the bus system? What is the cure?

  9. murmini said 4 days later:

    This has been a problem for some time now. Here is the TSB referring to the issue and the fix. It has been diagnosed as an inaccurate clock crystal calibration and the cure is to replace the entire instrument cluster or IKE. Hope this helps.

  10. mel said 4 days later:

    Great info Murrary. Would that be no charge at the dealership? Thank you in advance.

  11. murmini said 4 days later:

    I would think it would be a warranty claim pending your warranty status but check with your dealer.

  12. Kevin said 4 days later:

    The clock in the center speedo of my ‘05 MCS gained minutes/week. It was replaced under warranty (for no cost) and has worked flawlessly since.

  13. mel said 5 days later:

    Cheers, Murray and Kevin. I’ve finally contacted my dealership to set up an appointment … it’s about time.

  14. Chadtoolio said 11 days later:

    Murray,

    Chad from MINI of Charleston here…

    Just to clarify some of what you said. Ian the management of the EWS or Electronic Watchdog System, is in the General Body Module, but when activated it kills the starter motor and also prevents the engine computer from operating. So the ECU is preventing the car from running but the instructions that disable it come from the General Body Module.”

    The EWS is actually a seperate module that is on the k-bus along with GM. The key when inserted into the ignition switch passes through the toroidial coil which is mounted to the outside of the Ign. lock cylinder, sends its code to the EWS module which matches the code and Tells the DME that it is ok to activate the starter.

    The only function that the key has to do with the GM is for remote functions which are received via the back glass antenna/radio antenna in Pre 05 cars and via the Rearview mirror on 05 and later models.

    Sorry I missed your visit the other day…I was swamped.

    Chad

  15. murmini said 11 days later:

    Thanks for clarifying that Chad. I actually documented the EW3 as being a separate module back in my BUS article. I bet you have much better wiring diagrams than I do! Thank you again.

  16. maynard said about 1 month later:

    Interesting information on the “hold the door unlock button down the windows will roll down”. I thought I had a problem whereby every 4-5 weeks I would go out to my ‘05 MCS and the windows would be halfway down and the sunroof would be open. I assumed it was a design glitch in the ‘module’. I probably depressed the unlock button unawares in my pocket as I walked away. I took my MCS in for service to fix this, and they didn’t connect this as the possible cause. It sounds like I can have the “Convenience Opening” feature turned off or at least I can be careful with the keys in my pocket! Thank you!!

  17. ameier@psu.edu said 3 months later:

    I have had severe problems with 2 MINIs now and wonder whether they are related to the General Module. My last MINI 2004 Cooper S decided at some point to not start anymore. Meaning: the starter did not start at all. I had the car looked at repeatedly, it worked for a day or two, then exactly the same problem.

    Tired of this, I upgraded to a MINI Cooper GP S and what would you know: 3 months later exactly the same problem! Looking through the internet I have not found many post with similar complaints. Any ideas what to do? Is there a way to disable the security feature (which I think most likely is the cause of this starter shutdown)?

    Thanks

  18. murmini said 3 months later:

    I really think that you should take this to a MINI dealer and have them run a full analysis on the car’s systems. There is no way that such a fault can be diagnosed remotely like this. If there is an issue with the EWS security system, then an anaylsis with the dealer’s DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC will bring it to light.

  19. wanda.munoz@faa.gov said 3 months later:

    My 2003 Mini’s windows often do not allow the door to close when they are rolled up all the way. I have taken it to the dealer four times, and they claimed to have replaced the window motor twice, but gradually the problem reappears. Now the window is squeaking when rolled up or down. Any advice?

  20. murmini said 3 months later:

    Wanda, the windows should drop very slightly as the door is closed or opened then immediately go back up to seal. This has been a BMW feature for many years and is controlled by the General Module. It sounds like the replacement of window motors is not fixing the problem as they do not control this feature in anyway. I would encourage the dealer to look at the data coming off the General Module, something that they should be able to read with their DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC analyzer (not quite sure which one).

    Unfortunately, it looks like you are out of warranty but if possible, they should try to replace the GM and see if that resolves the issue. I am not sure how expensive the module is, but at least if they could A/B it with one that is known as working fine. I am sorry not to be of more help, but these issues are very difficult to locate sometime and not always the most obvious item is at fault. By the way, if they have replaced the window motor, then they should have conducted a motor initialization routine. You can do this by holding the window up button ‘on’ for five seconds after the window has been raised all the way up.

    Regarding the squeak, it sounds like the guide that the window runs in is ‘dry’ – you may try to wipe some silicone lubricant on the edge of the window

  21. wells_ia@netzero.net said 6 months later:

    MCS 2004, passenger power window just stopped working. Everything else is working fine. Is this an isolated circuit with own fuse? The window now doesn’t go up or down when door is opened or shut the way it should. Suggestions? I’m four hours for any dealer!

    Best Regards
  22. murmini said 6 months later:

    There is a fuse for each window – see here. I would check that first. F1 (LH) and F19 (RH).

  23. Rich said 9 months later:

    Hi there everyone, I have a 2004 MC purchased recently which I received 2 remote keys with, a cut one which works and an uncut one which doesn’t. I have been told the one that doesn’t work comes from another vehicle and cannot be recoded to my MC because I don’t have the original key code. Is there anything I can do about this and is there anywhere I can go to get a wiring diagram. Any advice would be greatly appreciate as I don’t like letting small things like this get the better of me. Thanks in advance. RR

  24. murmini said 10 months later:

    Rich: The electronic immobilization – EWS System – is complex and designed to sense a wireless signal from your key via a ring antenna that surrounds the ignition switch. This means that your key has to be programmed, by your dealer. I have read some info about programming the key yourself and you can find that reference here. If that doesn't work, talk to your MINI service shop and see what they can do. Regarding wiring diagrams, there are a full set in the Bentley Manual, though they tend to be more like network diagrams as the varios modules connect via the K-Bus, CAN-Bus and D-Bus etc.

  25. Sara said 10 months later:

    Why would holding the DSC button down cause a burning, smoking situation in my 2006 Cooper S? Also, after this event, I lost many functions on the dash including the speeodometer, the TAC, gas gauge, and all fans (heat, defrost, air). Is this a fault in design? Why isn’t there a fuse system that trips off instead of allowing wires or whatever it is that burned to burn? I thought the car was going to catch fire. This also happened once before to me, in the winter while driving. It took almost a month for the shop to figure out what needed to replaced. Today, this happened again when I was dropping the car off to be detailed. The windows were open and the guy went to close them and apparently hit the DSC toggle by mistake instead of the window and I smelled and then saw the smoke billow out from under the dash.

  26. murmini said 10 months later:

    Sarah: This issue is serious and beyond the scope of analyzing remotely. There would obviously appear to be some extraordinary electrical issue at work here. Yes, you are right in thinking that all voltage lines are fused, but something very untoward is occurring here. There were some heat-shield issues causing damage to wiring harnesses, but it was manifesting itself as various warning lights illuminating and some loss of power to the steering pump. Certainly nothing like you describe. Work with your service representative at your dealer and encourage them to follow up with MINI should then be unable to resolve your issue. Good Luck and let us know how this is resolved.

  27. Nicolas said 10 months later:

    Inside my BC-1 two of the control cards, the ones controling the ignition, the climate control, the right back stop light, and some other features, are burned. They got like that because a very heavy crash on that side of the vehicle, the frontal passenger´s side (2004 mini cooper S). I would like to know how can I do to get this fixed and where can I buy the spare parts. My problem is that the vehicle is located in a country where there is no Mini service. I would like to buy the parts in the USA and bring them to my country. Please help me with some ideas. Thank you.

  28. murmini said 10 months later:

    I am fairly certain that the only way to get a replacement is to buy a whole new BC-1, at least from the dealer network. Now while there a not that many scrapped MINIS out there, you may contact used car parts dealers such as autopartswarehouse or partshotline. Register with them what you are looking for and see what they can do or advise. Good luck!

  29. Jeff said about 1 year later:

    I’ve just got an 07 MC with NO remote, just the round unit with a key in it. I can buy a remote with key from another car on EBAY, but will I be able to to reprogram the thing or can MINI reprogram a used remote from another car? Thanks!

  30. murmni said about 1 year later:

    Jeff: I am not at all sure how the keys are coded on the R56 but I am pretty sure you will not be able to do this without getting it programmed by your MINI dealer due to the EWS system. Give your dealer a call and see what they can tell you about re-programming a new key.

  31. okijack@hotmail.com said about 1 year later:

    Just wondering if you could help. I have the problem of the dealership not being able to read my car’s ECU from the drivers side OBDII port. Could the problem be the OBD plug itself (The part you connect to with your OBDII scan tool)? If not, is the BC1 the likely culprit? Could an aftermarket window auto-up circuit board cause the interference that is preventing the dealers from reading the car’s diagnostics? The reason this has become an issue is because my Service Engine Soon light came on and the dealership techs cannot read the ECU to tell me what is wrong. There suggestion is to replace the OBD plug and wiring. If that does not work, they are saying I could possible need a new ECU. Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Jack

  32. murmini said about 1 year later:

    Jack, sorry to hear your having such problems. I really would not know where to start or attempt to diagnose what has happened. Any of the things you have mentioned could be at fault. I doubt its the AutoUp window unit though. Pain as it is, you could always disconnect it to completely eliminate it. Its going to be a case of trial and error. Unfortunately, the time involved and the potential of replacing parts to exclude them could be costly. I think your going to have to work with the dealer. Somethings are easier to change than others so maybe they could ‘lend’ a replacement unit to test if thats the culprit. In part 1 of this article, there is a pinout of the OBDII connector if that helps. Unfortunately these days, diagnostics and repairs are of the “test” “read error codes” “replace” variety and most if not all of the engineering or technical experience has been removed from the process. Plead with your service manager for a little more help and let me know what happens.

  33. okijack said about 1 year later:

    Thanks. I will keep you posted. I went for the easiest fix first. I ordered a new OBD plug. My hope is that I have a loose pin or bad plug. Thanks again.

  34. beth said about 1 year later:

    I am having some issues with my ‘04S and maybe you can tell me if I am having module issues. My passenger side window did not work when I purchased the car in September. The Suzuki dealership where I purchased the car replaced the motor with a brand new MINI motor. Well, it worked for a month then stopped working. Sometimes when I start the car the ac does not power on. I turn it off and back on and the ac works. Once the clock display did not work, but worked once I powered off then on. Now this Wednesday my driver’s side window stopped working. Oh, and two weeks ago I spent a day with the doors locking and unlocking while I drove. The doors would lock and unlock by themselves and I couldn’t lock the boot and passenger door with the key. This issue remedied itself, but then a few days ago this other window died. Oh, and I don’t know if this helps or if this is isolated from the issue, but the door locking thing came the day after I got caught out on I-10 in a hailstorm! While cruising on the interstate at 15 to 23 mph I had the most terrible time getting the car into lower gears. If I was in neutral, I had to use both hands to force it into 1st and then 2nd. I am at my wit’s end with this little car that I otherwise adore. Do I have a module issue and am I going to have to pay Tom Bush MINI thousands of dollars to fix it? Thanks so much for any advice you can give.

  35. murmini said about 1 year later:

    Beth: it is obviously pretty much impossible to figure out remotely exactly what is going on, however I might make a few suggestions.

    It does sound as if the General Module is playing up. One issue I have seen documented with some frequency is caused by water getting into the passenger side and subsequently into the module, which is located on the passenger side in the footwell behind the right-hand cover. If you see any sign of damp carpets or the like that could be it. You had mentioned how the car got a bit soaked in a hail storm.

    Beyond that, they really need to get it up on the BMW/MINI analysis machine and see if they can read any error logs or stored codes. I know that costs :30 – 1hr labour but its really the only way to go. It could be a faulty module, or a poor or water logged connection.

    I hope this helps.

  36. beth said about 1 year later:

    little MINI made a trip to Tom Bush today and I was a little freaked out. The diagnostic returned errors with the general module as well as other errors (one such error had to do with moisture, go figure! ha). They traced all errors to their sources and were able to discern the issue came from a bad battery. The battery the person before me put into her was the wrong size, wrong voltage, wrong everything. It was causing the system to short out. The reading on the battery was 7 volts. It is amazing I was able to get around. They did tell me both my window motors are shot. This is disapointing because the one was “replaced” in October from the dealership where I bought her. They confirmed today this was not the truth. They basically just gave her a quick fix to get her to work for a bit. The service advisor I dealt with today taught me the same quick fix and perhaps I can put off the new window motors for a bit! So 5 hours and $244 later I have a newfound love for the folks at Tom Bush. Thanks for all the advice given here. It helped me not feel like such an idiot going into a car dealership!

  37. murmini said about 1 year later:

    Thanks Beth. Its always so nice to hear the outcome of problems that people post here. Glad to have been of some assistance.

  38. sparky j said over 2 years later:

    I have a 2002 Mini Cooper (non s). The windows and the wipers suddenly have a mind of their own. The windows roll up and down in 1 inch increments only, sometimes getting stuck. The wipers do not shut off when activated (both front and back), and they eventually stop in an arbitrary position. The car had some recent body work and while in the shop the battery ran down. They had to jump it every time they needed to move it. They replaced the battery with what looks like the correct type, size etc. I have taken the mini to a BMW repair facility here in Los Angeles where I asked them to do a test on the Computer system. Here are the findings:

    FAULT SUMMARY 00 K bus B5 Blower motor, short circuit to pos…(window cuts off text) 8C Relay, windshield wiper 93 Rear-window defroster, short circ…. 91 Rear window wiper 96 Rear window wiper, reset contact 95 Windshield Wipers, reset contact….. B6 Blower motor, open circuit or short DWA: passenger door open during a….. DWA: rear lid open during a…... DWA: passenger door open during a….. DWA: passenger door open during a….. DWA: passenger door open during a…..

    MESSAGES AND RESULTS B5 Blower motor, short circuit to positive Currently present Fault frequency —-—-—-—-- I have pulled away the passenger kick panel to look at the BC-1. When rolling the windows up or down you can hear what sounds like points trying to trip and stay engaged, a clicking sound.

    Does this indicate a bad ground somewhere? or does it indicate a bad BC-1? If it is a bad BC-1, can this be replaced with a used one? Does it need reprogramming and if so, what computer/program is needed? Can a licensed BMW repair shop do this?

    Also: what Blower motor is this referring too?

    Thanks for any help

  39. murmini said over 2 years later:

    This is very difficult to diagnose via email or comments, however here are some things to consider. Is there any change that the general module has been exposed to any water intrusion? Due to its low location near the foot well this has been seen as a problem with flooding or if water has gathered in that area. The blower being referred to is the air conditioner blower motor located on the drivers side of the heater and a/c unit. It has resistor packs that are used to control the speed of the motor on the manual heater and a/c control. On the auto a/c system, this is controlled by the BC-1. The resistor packs are located in the airflow of the blower to keep them cool, the voltage provided to the resistor packs is from an external relay that is controlled by the General Module (BC-1). So what can you do? The complexity of this system is somewhat eased by good diagnostic functions within the car. A BMW service shop or a MINI dealer should be able to track this down, but you should also be able to find a local ‘import’ car repair shop that is reliable and more affordable. There are a number of these facilities out there that have the requisite software configuration tools such as the DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC. In most instances, automobile manufacturers will only sell these to authorized dealers, however, you can get very similar results from some third-party manufacturers such as PassThrough+ SX who manufacture and sell automotive analytic hard and software. So there are some alternatives in terms of your costs in locating this. Good luck… please let me know what the outcome is.

  40. charlie p said over 2 years later:

    A friend has a 2006 2008 (i’m not realy sure…) mini coop, I believe it’s a clubman. He has helped me a lot, and in return, he asked me to help him disable the door chime; when the ‘key’ is in, and the door is open, it dings through the stereo speakers. He asked me to help him with this because I am mechanically inclined. I finally figured out how the chime is wired when the door is open, and the ‘key’ is in, if I use a screwdriver to push up the latch on the door, the chime stops. everything else still works, just no chime. What can I do to disable the chime, knowing what I know now? It appears that the chime sensor or mechanism is inside the door latch actuator. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  41. murmini said over 2 years later:

    I would be very careful with implementing this as all of these functions are now managed by the software embedded in the General Module BC-1. Yes, you could disarm the door latch but that in turn will in turn start to develop error codes. Its just not like it used to be when you could just unhook a wire or two. Many cars today use the electrical wiring to transmit data using an IP infrastructure and protocol. For example, feeding two wires to a mirror motor to power it then sending the actual instruction sets over that wires as IP traffic to tell the motor what to do. I am not saying you may find some innovative way of circumventing this but I would be very, very cautious. You may even fall foul of hindering your friends warranty – MINIS / BMWs usually have a sticker on the drivers side of the window explaining that any tampering with the electronics may ultimately cause them to revoke the warranty.

  42. Dan said over 2 years later:

    My co-workers friend’s ‘04 mini won’t start after reaching in window trying to open locked door!!! Is there a quick fix or does he have to take it in??? Thanks for any help.

  43. murmini said over 2 years later:

    Dan: sorry for the mix up with the posting. Sorry I can not be of more assistance with your question but there are just too many variables. Do any of the lights come on when you try to start it? Does the starter solenoid click as you turn the key? Best have a tech take a look… Sorry can’t be of more help.

  44. Malcolm said over 2 years later:

    Hi, My 03 Cooper S: all interior lights work, however they dont come on when i turn the key off, also when i unlock the car from outside, the dome and footwell lights dont come on anymore, they used to work fine.

  45. murmini said over 2 years later:

    Malcolm I can’t be of much help i am afraid. You need to get the error codes causing this to be read by an analyzer.

  46. Malcolm said over 2 years later:

    Hi Murmini, Thanks for the response, I by chance stumbled across a way to reset the lighting by holding down the interior light button for 5 sec. This seems to have reset the “module/controller”, yay!! Everything seems fine now.

  47. murmini said over 2 years later:

    We live and learn! Thanks for the feedback, I do not see that documented in my paperwork, so WELL DONE!

  48. RJG said over 3 years later:

    My 2003 MCS HK radio is giving me a problem … CD is fine, but radio reception very poor (at first thought it sounded like speaker problem but they sound fine with CD) ... I have checked all antenna attachments for security and rust and wires into the signal relay (behind rear passenger side panel) and all looks fine … Last thing I know to do is to check line into the head unit itself … Anyone run into that coming loose or other suggestions?

  49. Chris/ckaire69@yahoo.com said over 3 years later:

    I have a parking brake light that comes on intermittently, when driving. When it does the windshield wipers run extremely slow. The mini dealer is having problems diagnosing it. any suggestions?

  50. murmini said over 3 years later:

    Wow, this is a difficult one. Your in the best place letting your dealer try and track this one down. (Hope it’s under warranty). It sounds like a control issue within the General Module but sometimes these electrical issues are very hard to isolate. Please let us know what they find out and the ‘cure’. Sorry I can’t be of more help.

  51. chris/ckaire69@yahoo.com said over 3 years later:

    Disconnected and charged battery for a couple of hours just before taking the car to the mini dealer.

    Apparently, it reset all the control modules. The mini dealer was able to duplicate the problem after having the car for about a month. When in doubt… reboot

  52. Linus Nilsson said over 3 years later:

    Hi!

    I am the (proud) owner of a Mini Cooper S 2005 convertible. A few weeks ago a mysterious electrical issue began to show; randomly when the car has been parked for a few hours the alarm just shuts of (stops functioning). Also It doesn’t respond to my remote key. When this happens I open the door with the key but the car is totally dark (no internal lights go on). It just appears dead. I can start the car however, but when the car is started the following functions failure; wipers, steering directors, ac and fan, power windows, long distance beem. H o w e v e r; the anti spin, ABS brakes, stereo and many other things do work fine. Apart from the things mentioned that failure I can drive normally and at ANY time full functionality can suddenly come back. Just like that. After 30 seconds or 25 minutes. Totally random. Ive had this problem when the car has been parked in 5 degrees (outside) and 70 degrees (in a garage). I have tried with a new battery but I does not solve the problem. From reading here I’m thinking it might be the General Modul. But can I really failure that randomly? Also notice that the problem has never appeared when im actually driving. If it starts fine it continues fine. If it starts bad it continues bad… until it jumps back to normal… ANY help would be SO MUCH appreciated!!!

  53. murmini said over 3 years later:

    Very interesting. Yes, many of these items do interface with the General Module, however it would be impossible to diagnose this from afar!. It would be interesting to see what codes may have been generated as the system does have some extensive self-diagnosis capability. Try to get someone to read your OBD data from the OBD connector under the dash. Its very likely your going to have to get a dealer involved or a shop with the requisite DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC analyzers.

  54. Davinder said over 3 years later:

    My 2004 cooper S would not start.Local mechanic changed the starter.It ran for a few days.The same problem-after sitting overnight,it refuses to start.What could be the problem?

  55. murmini said over 3 years later:

    Not enough to go on really. Test if the power isn getting to the starter and then carry out some basic diagnostics. Sorry can’t be of much help.

  56. hitenta@gmail.com said over 4 years later:

    You sure know alot maybe you can help solve this puzzle. On my 05 convertible when I press the button on the roof rail to open the rear 2 windows the right (pass side) rear window and the drivers door window go down 1st the the pass door window goes 1/2 way down and the left rear window does nothing. Is this the computer that controls that action and needs to be replaced?

  57. murmini said over 4 years later:

    Thank you for the compliments, however, this stuff is almost impossible to diagnose remotely like this. You need some tests to be run on the system, which your dealer or a capable repair facility with good diagnostic technology can do. You may be right about the General Module, but I would not replace it until you have a better view of what is going on.

  58. 06minime said over 4 years later:

    Hey, I have an 06 MCS that suffered that wonderful water leak which caused the BCM to short and corroded the interior wiring harness. I’m told there will be a tag located on the harness in order to match a replacement, yet I can’t find it. Any idea where this tag might be located or how to go about discovering the right harness without it?

  59. darren said over 4 years later:

    Hello, I have a starter problem on my 2008 mini cooper s clubman R55, Disconnected the battery to charge it, when reconnected the starter motor just turns for a split second without starting the engine. Does not make any difference if i change the battery for a different one. I tried a brand new battery – no difference! Any ideas please?

  60. arlrez said over 5 years later:

    Hi,

    I know this article is old but thank you for such a great description. I came to this article while trying to find out more information on the EWS module and what it does; now I have a better understanding.

    My ‘05 Mini Cooper S has been having strange transmission problems; sometimes when I put in reverse the car jumps and makes loud noise, sometimes the car takes a long time to shift between gears, and other times it jumps forward (tires peel out) while it tries to shift from low to high gear. My mini is an automatic and this seems to happen only when the car is warm.

    I took it to the dealer, who charged me $130 to look at the problem. They came back and said they can’t get faults from the Transmission Control Unit because they can’t communicate with EWS. They are saying that the EWS module is fried and it needs to be replaced. They want to charge $400 to replace the EWS module.

    This makes no sense to me based on this article since I don’t see the relationship between EWS & Transmission Control Unit. Furthermore if what you say is true, it seems that EWS module only responsible for drive-away protection.

    I think I just got ripped off by my dealer.

    Could you tell me if my assumption is correct in that there is hardly a relationship between EWS & Transmission Control Unit?

    Thanks for any help you may provide.

  61. murmini said over 5 years later:

    I am sure your dealer is able to diagnose this fault and locate the appropriate module. The EWS module is on the K-bus and connected to the General Module. The Auto transmission module is on the D bus – both are connected to the Instrument Cluster module. Simply ask your dealer to explain in terms your comfortable with what is going on and why they are drawing that conclusion. It may be more complex than they said and you just got a poor interpretation.

  62. arlrez said over 5 years later:

    @murmini – Thank you so much for your quick response. I thought since this post is old; I may not even get a response.

    So the General Module & Trans module are on 2 different buses but connected to the Instrument Cluster? Which probably is the master module that provides fault data.

    I tried to ask the dealer to explain it to me and they kept saying that since EWS is not reporting valid codes they can’t trust the codes coming back from other modules and that it should be fixed first before troubleshooting the transmission problem. After trying several different times/ways to ask the questions, I got frustrated and hung up the phone. I have filed a charge dispute with my credit card company to get my $130 back.

    When I looked at the paper work given back to me; here’s what it says:

    “Found EGS Transmission Control Unit was not fitted to car. Need to replace EWS to allow car to know it is fitted with an Automatic Transmission.”

    I’ve tried to wrap my head around this diagnosis for the past couple of days and still have no clue what the above statement means.

    Do you understand it?

  63. Linda said over 5 years later:

    Help! I have an ‘02 Mini. When I start it everything works fine. After it warms up for 10 minutes I have problems with some dash components. Specifically, the climate control panel shuts down and blinks a weird light, the dash lights don’t work sometimes and sometimes they come on and won’t go off, the blinker indicator on the dash doesn’t work and the high beam indicator doesn’t work. All of these things happen consistently after the car warms up for 10 minutes. Everything else works fine.

  64. murmin said over 5 years later:

    Well, you really need someone to review the error codes generated – with an OBDII reader.. that would be very helpful to start the diagnosis.

  65. Linda said over 5 years later:

    Who can do that? Does it have to be the dealership? They are far away and I can’t even talk to anyone there. I’ve left messages but no return call. Does it make sense if it is a BC1 problem that it works fine when the car is cold?

  66. murmin said over 5 years later:

    Most repair shops can help you with that .

  67. Linda said over 5 years later:

    Okay. Thanks.

  68. Linda said over 5 years later:

    Okay, the OBD2 read indicates a problem with the oxygen sensor. Can this be related to my electrical problem or just a seperate issue? Battery tested fine…even tried a new battery. Alternator tested fine. Fuses are fine. They reset the ECU and fixed a couple other problems that I have had for a while, but still having the same problem with the dash components. When I hook it up to a power pack things seem to work better. Could there be some other source of voltage problem?

  69. Frank said over 5 years later:

    Hello, I have a 2003 mini Cooper S. I bought it about two years ago with no problems. After a regular emission inspection(passed) I noticed that the car started doing one of two things. The temperature gauge will shoot all the way to the top and my tachometer will stop working. Also the snow flake button on my AC will not light up or blow cold air. The low tire pressure indicator lights up to and also the tire traction light. It will do this for a while and then the temperature gauge will return to normal, all other lights will turn off save perhaps for the low tire one or the traction control, but not always and my tachometer will work again and the check engine light comes on and I get cold AC again. And then sometimes nothing lights up and everything is fine. Took it to dealership, computer said everything was fine except for the sensor on the air take manifold but I won’t go there again since they forgot to even change some burned out bulbs and the gauge problems were still on display even as they were driving it up to me after two weeks with them and saying everything was fixed. Any ideas. Thank you.

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  75. Colin Layfield said over 12 years later:

    we went to a non minicooper/bmw garage recently. After the mechanic plugged into the diagnostic module..2 power windows stopped working as well as a headlight went out. Is it possible to short circuit the module when connecting to diagnostic..which in this case was done through a laptop? any info appreciated. thank you

  76. blitzify19 said over 13 years later:

    Thanks for this detailed article. Please keep posting such nice contents regularly. I have been following your blog for some time now. If you can check our website which deals with auto repair estimator then it would be great. https://www.blitzify.com/blog/

  77. Danielle - fodald@aol.com said over 14 years later:

    2009 Mini Cooper clubman Tailgate right door with lock on it that latches to the door on the left side – has suddenly stopped locking. Literally happened out of nowhere; suddenly.

    I am unable to locate the answer – to this question anywhere. Possibly is it a fuse that may need replaced? Thank you in advance for any input. Highly appreciative & grateful for any data that any one could supply me with.

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